Saturday, October 15, 2016

Kardashian Contour?

Hello my darlings!

Today's installment is courtesy of the contour revolution. The sweeping movement to use those dark, brown pigments or shadows that give you the Kardashian sculpt where your face is transformed. The use of highlighters, powders, creams, and concealer that gives that golden and shadowed visage.

But..................................................... (and there is always a but), it isn't a look for some demographics.

Some simply look overdone and the contour only makes them seem as if they have a faux, too bronzed skin tone. It isn't a good look.

Contouring the traditional method of using a dark powder (or foundation, cream etc) and a highlight has its place and far often it is overused. We look at Youtube videos, instructional videos or read up on how to use it. And for some it does work. But if you have pale skin and do not tan easily, it is not the look for you.

But.......................I want that prominent cheek bone. I want to make my face look slimmer.

Rest assured my little minions it is still possible to sculpt your face and give you a flattering, not bronzed and overdone, finish. In fact it is absolutely 100% effective for most skin tones.

What devilry do I have to sign up for in order to get this look?

It is easy. All you need is a good eye shadow, blush and the right highlighter. Let me explain.

I have pretty fair skin that does not take well to the traditional contouring. And when I tried using the traditional method, I looked fake baked. And I tried many different contouring kits. The ones with a darker shadow, medium shadow and what many consider a highlighter. They simply did not work. But I'll share with you what did and explain how to apply it successfully.

Let's start with the basics which are always your brushes. You will need a small contouring brush, cut brush or a sponge. You will need a fan brush and a short blush brush.

The contouring powder you will need is a taupe powder or cream that falls closer to a gray. This is your base for creating the defined look. Next you need an all purpose blush. For fair skin types one blush that stands above the rest is NARS Orgasm. (To be honest it is a blush shade that everyone should have. It is flattering to every skin tone.)

A good highlighter is next. Skip the highlighters that come in standard contour kits. It is not the one you want because those tend to be only suited for medium skin tones. You want a pale shimmer, a pink shimmer or even a blue shimmer highlighter. I highly, highly recommend two brands.

Jeffree Star's Skin Frost line. There are some incredible shades available. Just remember, though, that you want a paler color. Stay away from the overly warm. I highly recommend using Ice Cold and Peach Goddess together to create a great multidimensional effect.

My other go to favorite I recently discovered is Urban Decay's Afterglow 8 Hour Powder Highlighter. I chose Sin and Aura.

Take your contour brush and swipe the contour shadow and tap against your hand. This removes excess product. You want to slowly build your contour shade because it is much easier to blend and add than it is to remove.

Imagine a line that stretches and swoops from the top of your ear down below your cheek bones that ends a few inches from the corner of your mouth. If you are worried that you don't know where to swoop and stop, simply suck in your cheeks. That is the natural curve you want to create a shadow. That area is what will bring out your cheek bones.

Apply your powder and blend, blend, blend but try to stay within that natural curve.

Next comes your forehead and temple. Imagine the number 3. The 3 starts at the center of your hairline. It goes along the hairline to your temple and then to the hollow of your cheeks. Make SURE that you use the minimum amount of color. Dip in taupe shadow, tap and then move it along your skin.

Let's tackle that jaw line. Your jaw line is what will help slim your face, help eliminate any less than thin area beneath your jaw. The effect will be a more pronounced jaw. Same principle as before. Use the shadow sparingly. Remember: You can always add more but taking it away is a pain in the ass.

Your blush should be just a subtle pink or salmon to the apples of your cheek. Use as little powder as you can. You don't want the porcelain doll effect. You want just enough healthy pink that livens up your face and adds depth.

Highlighter time! Get out that fan brush. Remember all the lessons above in regards to be judicial in the amount of product? This is where it is very important. Highlighters need to build and the amount varies on where it is applied. You will be applying this to your upper cheekbone directly beneath the outer corner of your eye, the bridge of your nose, the cupids bow and right above the arch of your eyebrow.

Fan the brush through the highlighter, tap and sweep. I use two different highlighters. The first one is the darker highlighter that is more of a peach tone. The peach tone will add tremendous depth against the taupe contour. Sweep it on top of your cheekbone, above the arch of your eye and down the bridge of your nose.. Then add just a little bit at your cupid's bow on your upper lip.

Now it is time for highlighter number 2. This is an optional step. I love using a lighter highlighter because I want my cheeks to not be as round and it adds a step of glam to your makeup look for the day. I absolutely love Jeffree Star's Skin Frost in Ice Cold. It is GORGEOUS. He has others in a Mint and now in shades such as lavender. You can't go wrong with these unless you put too much on at once. These are hyper-pigments and a little goes a long way which is good because they aren't as cheap as others. I'd gauge them to be a bit middle ground in the price line.

There you go! No need to look like you are a fake bake contour. No need to let bronzers give you that orange glow. Use taupe's and create a depth that is incredible. Fair skin people unite and say Hell No to the Orange Glow! We can't all be olive toned beauties where the standard contour works.


No comments:

Post a Comment